If you’re looking for a cozy Miyajima cafe to start your day with a proper breakfast and a great cup of coffee, Kissaten Shima is the place locals quietly treasure. Tucked into Omotesando Shopping Street — the main pedestrian lane that leads toward Itsukushima Shrine — this charming coffee shop has been welcoming guests since 1966. It’s one of the only spots on the island that opens early enough to catch you right off the morning ferry, and my family visits at least once a month without fail.
Kissaten Shima: A Miyajima Cafe Worth Waking Up Early For
Kissaten Shima opened its doors in 1966 and is now lovingly run by second-generation owner Yamauchi Akiko, who inherited both the recipes and the coffee philosophy from her grandfather. The menu centers on freshly baked bread, homemade pastries, and a signature deep-roast coffee brewed with the same careful, unhurried method that has defined the cafe for decades. The shop sits in the middle of Omotesando Shopping Street, making it easy to find on your way toward the shrine — just follow the main covered arcade after leaving the ferry terminal.
Morning sets are served from 8:30 to 11:00 AM, making Kissaten Shima one of the rare spots on Miyajima where you can sit down to a real breakfast before the sightseeing crowds arrive. The interior fits just 14 guests, so it has an intimate, unhurried atmosphere that feels a world away from the busier stretches of the shopping street. The cafe is closed on Wednesdays and accepts a wide range of cashless payments, so you don’t need to worry about having exact change on hand.
Local regulars say the quietest window is weekday afternoons between around 2:00 and 4:00 PM — a good tip if you’d like a relaxed coffee break without waiting for a seat.
Before you start browsing for souvenirs along the shopping street, fueling up at a good cafe makes the whole experience better. For a full overview of what to explore along the way, check out our guide to Omotesando Shopping Street.
Miyajima's main shopping street — known locally as Omotesando — is a l...
Inside the Cafe
The interior is clean and cheerful, with white walls, tidy furnishings, and a relaxed atmosphere that feels more like a neighborhood coffee house than a tourist cafe. Freshly baked goods and pastries are displayed near the entrance, and you can pick up takeaway items even if you’re not staying for a full meal. Families with young children generally find the space comfortable, and on rainy days it works beautifully as a warm refuge while you decide on your next move.
The Morning Set: Fuel Up Before Exploring Miyajima
The morning set runs from 8:30 to 11:00 AM and pairs a thick-cut toast plate with your choice of drink. Drink options include a blended coffee, homemade lemonade, matcha latte, and — one of the most charming items on the menu — something called Grandpa’s Dark Roast Coffee, named in tribute to the founder’s deeply roasted house blend.
The most popular choice is the Classic Set (¥1,000 including tax), which comes with thick-cut toast, a fried egg, a small salad, and coffee. For ¥200 more, you can add honey or lemon jam on the side. If you’re drawn to local flavors, the Lemon Jam Set (¥1,200) features homemade jam made from Setouchi lemons — the famously fragrant citrus grown along the shores of the Seto Inland Sea — while the Miyajima Honey Set (¥1,200) comes with a generous drizzle of honey produced right on the island.
The thick-cut toast arrives warm and fragrant, with a soft interior and a golden crust. The coffee is rich and full-bodied without being bitter — exactly what you want after stepping off an early ferry. The egg and salad keep things light enough that you’ll still have plenty of appetite for all the street food Miyajima has to offer later. Menu details and set contents can vary slightly depending on availability, so it’s always worth checking the in-store menu on arrival.
After breakfast, consider heading to Yamadaya on the shopping street — their second floor offers a hands-on momiji manju baking experience that’s a hidden gem most visitors walk right past.
Momiji Manju Making Experience at Yamadaya Miyajima Main Store ...
Location and Getting There
Kissaten Shima is located roughly in the middle of Omotesando Shopping Street, positioned naturally along the walking route from the ferry terminal toward Itsukushima Shrine. After arriving at Miyajima ferry pier, simply enter the covered shopping arcade and walk toward the shrine — you’ll pass the cafe on your way. The location makes it easy to time your visit around the morning set before the main sightseeing rush begins.
A quick note for first-time visitors: the JR ferry passes closer to the Great Torii Gate on the way over, so if you’d like a scenic approach with a view of the iconic gate, the JR route is the one to take for your outbound crossing. Once you arrive, Kissaten Shima is only a few minutes’ walk into the shopping street.
The cafe is closed on Wednesdays. It opens at 8:30 AM, so arriving near opening time gives you the best chance of finding a seat during peak travel periods.
If you’re planning to visit Itsukushima Shrine later in the morning, it helps to read up on what to expect before you go.
Itsukushima Shrine sits at the edge of the sea on Miyajima Island, jus...
Toast, Sandwiches, and the Full Menu
Beyond the morning sets, Kissaten Shima offers a range of individual toast options throughout the day. Regulars come back for the three-cheese toast, the butter toast with Setouchi lemon jam, and the honey toast — all priced around ¥550. A honey toast with a scoop of ice cream (¥800) is a popular afternoon treat. Ordering toast with a drink often qualifies for a small set discount.
Sandwiches are available for both dine-in and takeaway, making them a practical option if you’re managing ferry timings or want something to eat while walking. Options typically include BLT, teriyaki chicken, and a mixed sandwich, along with ham and cheese, bacon and scrambled egg, and a vegetable sandwich — roughly in the ¥950 to ¥1,200 range. Since the lineup can change with the season and daily availability, it’s best to check the current menu at the counter.
If you love freshly baked bread, Shimaumapan is another local bakery worth adding to your Miyajima itinerary.
Just one minute on foot from the Miyajima ferry pier, Shima Uma Pan ...
Coffee and House-Made Drinks
The standout on the drinks menu is Grandpa’s Dark Roast Coffee — a deeply roasted blend with a full, rounded flavor and a satisfying aroma that pairs well with sweet pastries or just a quiet moment. The blended coffee offers a slightly lighter option, while the homemade lemonade and lemon squash are refreshing choices after walking in the heat. A seasonal ume (Japanese plum) squash sometimes appears on the menu during summer, and other seasonal drinks rotate in throughout the year. Check the board on arrival for whatever’s currently on offer.
Baked Goods and Souvenirs
Some of the most popular takeaway items at Kissaten Shima are the baked goods, which draw on Hiroshima’s well-known Setouchi lemon and local honey. The Miyajima Weekend Citron — a moist lemon-and-honey cake — is a consistent favorite as a souvenir, pairing beautifully with both coffee and tea. Bambi cookies and breads made with sea salt or lemon are also popular picks. The lineup at the display case changes day to day, and seasonal items like apple pie appear occasionally.
For those who can’t make it back to the island anytime soon, Kissaten Shima also operates an online shop, so you can order some of the baked goods and have them delivered at home after your trip.
While you’re picking up sweets on Miyajima, age momiji — the deep-fried maple leaf cakes from Momijido — are another must-try. The first batch of the morning comes out freshest and crispiest.
If you're looking for the ultimate Miyajima street food experience, ag...
Atmosphere and Practical Tips
The bright, white-walled interior photographs well and has a calm energy that makes it easy to linger over a second cup of coffee. Morning hours tend to be relatively quiet right at opening, though the shop can fill up quickly on busy weekends and holidays. If you arrive during peak times and find the 14-seat interior full, the sandwiches are easy to take away — the harbor area and the waterfront path near the ferry terminal offer pleasant spots to sit and eat outdoors.
For visitors traveling with young children, a nursing room is available on the second floor of the Miyajima Tourist Information Center, located along the shopping street. Diaper-changing facilities are also found in most of the public restrooms around the island.
Payment Options
Kissaten Shima accepts a wide range of payment methods alongside cash, including major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, JCB, American Express, and Diners Club), IC transit cards, electronic money services such as Rakuten Edy, nanaco, and WAON, and QR code payment apps including PayPay, d-barai, Rakuten Pay, and au PAY. International visitors should have no trouble paying without Japanese cash.
What Visitors Say
On travel review platforms, Kissaten Shima consistently ranks among the top cafes in the Miyajima area, with reviewers frequently praising the coffee quality, the lemon cake, the handmade bread, and the relaxed atmosphere. The cafe draws both repeat visitors from off the island and loyal local regulars — a combination that says a lot about consistency and quality. For those hoping to avoid the busiest periods, the quietest windows are typically right at opening and during the mid-afternoon lull between roughly 2:00 and 4:00 PM on weekdays.
Making the Most of Takeaway
If you’re managing a tight schedule around ferry departures or want something portable for the trail, the sandwich options travel well and are sized for easy eating on the go. A good strategy for a full Miyajima day is to have your morning set inside — toast, egg, salad, and coffee — then pick up a sandwich or a piece of lemon cake to take with you for later. A note for the evening: ice cream and soft-serve along the shopping street tends to have shorter waits after around 5:00 PM, so that can make a nice dessert after an afternoon of sightseeing.
Before you leave the area, anago rice — the island’s signature grilled conger eel over rice — is just a short walk from Kissaten Shima and well worth building into your day.
Miyajima Island is famous for its floating torii gate and ancient shri...
FAQ
What are the morning set hours at Kissaten Shima?
The breakfast sets are served from 8:30 AM to 11:00 AM. The cafe opens at 8:30 AM, making it one of the earliest options for a sit-down breakfast on Miyajima.
What breakfast sets are available?
The Classic Set (¥1,000) includes thick-cut toast, a fried egg, a small salad, and coffee. The Lemon Jam Set (¥1,200) features homemade Setouchi lemon jam, and the Miyajima Honey Set (¥1,200) uses locally produced island honey. Specific offerings may vary by day, so it’s worth checking the in-store menu when you arrive.
Can I get food to go from Kissaten Shima?
Yes. Sandwiches are available for takeaway and are well suited for eating on the go during sightseeing or while waiting for a ferry. Baked goods and pastries can also be purchased to take away as snacks or souvenirs.
What payment methods does Kissaten Shima accept?
The cafe accepts cash, major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, JCB, Amex, Diners), IC transit cards, electronic money (Rakuten Edy, nanaco, WAON), and popular QR code apps including PayPay and Rakuten Pay. International travelers should have no difficulty paying.
Is Kissaten Shima suitable for families with young children?
Yes, the relaxed atmosphere is comfortable for families. The space is small (14 seats), so it’s worth arriving a bit early during busy periods to secure a table. A nursing room is available at the Miyajima Tourist Information Center nearby, and diaper-changing facilities are found in most public restrooms on the island.
When is the best time to visit to avoid crowds?
Arriving right at the 8:30 AM opening is a reliable way to get a seat before the day’s sightseeing traffic picks up. On weekdays, the mid-afternoon window between roughly 2:00 and 4:00 PM tends to be the quietest time of day.
Does Kissaten Shima have seasonal menu items?
Yes. The drinks menu changes with the seasons — lemon and ume (plum) drinks tend to appear in warmer months, and seasonal baked goods like apple pie make occasional appearances. Check the in-store board for what’s currently available on the day of your visit.
Wrapping Up
Kissaten Shima is one of those rare spots that earns its reputation not through novelty, but through consistency — good coffee, honest handmade food, and a warm welcome that hasn’t changed in nearly six decades. Whether you’re after a proper sit-down breakfast before a full day of shrine visits and hiking, or just a quiet coffee break midway through the shopping street, it’s the kind of Miyajima cafe that earns a place on your regular rotation.
If you find yourself on the island and the morning set window is still open, it’s well worth timing your arrival to start the day here. My family certainly does.
For another long-running Miyajima institution worth visiting, Fujiiya has been making some of the island’s most beloved confections for generations — a great stop for traditional souvenirs.
Tucked along the Omotesando shopping street on your walk from the ferr...
Note: Hours, menu offerings, prices, and operational details are subject to change. We recommend verifying current information directly with the establishment before your visit.
