The Great Torii of Itsukushima Shrine has stood in the sea for approximately 900 years, surviving through nine rebuildings since Taira no Kiyomori’s era in the 12th century. The current torii, rebuilt in 1875, was long believed to be the 8th generation—until recent research revealed it’s actually the 9th. This article traces the complete history of each great torii and explains how this iconic structure has endured through centuries of typhoons, lightning strikes, and the relentless wear of saltwater.
From Kiyomori’s Era Through the Medieval Period
The First Great Torii (Around 1168)
Itsukushima Shrine took its current form as a shrine built over the sea in 1168, during the Heian period. With financial backing from Taira no Kiyomori—the most powerful samurai of his era—the local administrator Saeki Kagehiro constructed the grand shrine complex, including the first torii standing in the tidal flats.
According to historical records, the original plaques were calligraphed by two legendary figures: Ono no Michikaze on the front and Kobo Daishi (Kukai) on the reverse. This torii represented cutting-edge architecture for its time and became a powerful symbol of the Taira clan’s devotion to their guardian deity.
The Overlooked Second Generation (1223–1240)
A significant discovery emerged during research conducted before the recent Reiwa-era restoration. Examining historical construction records, researchers found a report from 1240 mentioning the great torii as “already completed”—indicating a rebuilding had occurred sometime between 1223 and 1240.
Previously, historians believed the 1286 rebuilding was the second generation. This finding pushed back the timeline by one generation, confirming that today’s torii is the 9th, not the 8th as long assumed.
Third and Fourth Generations (1286 and 1371)
The third great torii was rebuilt in October 1286. This structure appears in the famous Ippen Hijiri-e scroll paintings, depicted as a vermilion-painted myojin-style torii. However, it collapsed during a severe storm on June 25, 1325.
The fourth generation was completed in April 1371. Timber for this construction came from areas now known as Saeki Ward’s Toshimatsu district and Hatsukaichi City’s Miyauchi area. Unfortunately, no records survive to tell us when or how this torii was lost.
Rebuildings from the Warring States Through Edo Period
The Shift to Ryobu-Style Torii (1547)
The fifth great torii, rebuilt on November 18, 1547 under the patronage of the warlord Ouchi Yoshitaka, marked a major architectural turning point. The design changed from a simple myojin-style torii to the distinctive ryobu style still seen today.
A ryobu torii features auxiliary supporting pillars in front of and behind the two main columns, creating a six-pillar structure. The name comes from Buddhist terminology—”ryobu” refers to the “two realms” of Shingon esoteric Buddhism, reflecting the deep syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism at Miyajima during this period. Lord Ouchi also presented to the shrine a plaque bearing calligraphy by Emperor Go-Nara, at the request of the priest Sonkai of Daiganji Temple.
Mori Clan Reconstruction (1561)
In October 1561, the powerful Mori clan, led by Mori Takamoto, sponsored the sixth great torii. Timber was brought from what is now Noumi Island, Nihojima, and Iwakuni in Yamaguchi Prefecture.
This structure stood for approximately 155 years before collapsing naturally in 1716. The combination of seawater immersion, salt air, and typhoon damage eventually took its toll on the wooden structure.
Asano Yoshinaga’s Rebuilding (1739)
In September 1739, Asano Yoshinaga, the 5th lord of Hiroshima Domain and one of the “Seven Wise Lords of Edo,” sponsored the seventh great torii. Camphor wood for the pillars was sourced from areas including present-day Hirose in Naka Ward, Funakoshi in Aki Ward, Fuchu Town, and Shimokamagari in Kure.
Tragically, a lightning strike destroyed this torii on July 7, 1776. The scholar Kan Chazan, visiting Miyajima in 1788, recorded in his travel diary that the great torii remained unrepaired, standing as a ruined marker in the sea for over a decade.
From Late Edo to the Meiji Transformation
Asano Nariyoshi’s Rebuilding (1801)
On March 27, 1801, Asano Nariyoshi, the 8th lord of Hiroshima Domain, completed the eighth great torii. Camphor timber was gathered from locations including Muro District in Wakayama Prefecture, Ujina and Takehara in Hiroshima, and Kure.
Some researchers believe an enormous camphor tree—3.5 meters in diameter and 5 meters tall—may have been felled from Ujina Island for this construction. The torii met its end on August 7, 1850, when a powerful typhoon and storm surge destroyed it. Records note that the plaque drifted as far as the waters near Atadjima Island.
The Unpainted Era and Return to Vermilion
In the early Meiji period (1868 onward), the government’s shinbutsu bunri policy—the forced separation of Shinto and Buddhism—brought dramatic changes. The vermilion-painted torii was deemed too Buddhist in character. Under government orders, the torii was stripped of its paint and left as bare, unpainted wood, considered more appropriate for “pure” Shinto architecture.
After Itsukushima Shrine’s designation as a National Important Cultural Property in 1899, major repairs began in 1909 and lasted two years. During this restoration, the torii was repainted in its traditional vermilion and the roof was re-shingled—returning the structure to the appearance visitors recognize today.
The Current Great Torii (9th Generation)
The 1875 Rebuilding
On July 18, 1875, the current great torii was completed through the efforts of Koizumi Jinemon (of the Koizumi Honten merchant house) and other donors. Though long classified as the 8th generation, recent historical research has confirmed it is actually the 9th.
Standing approximately 16.6 meters tall and weighing about 60 tons, it ranks among Japan’s largest wooden torii gates. The main pillars are natural camphor trees estimated at around 500 years old—the east pillar from Miyazaki Prefecture and the west pillar from Kagawa Prefecture.
Showa and Heisei Era Repairs
In 1925, reinforced concrete was wrapped around the base of the pillars for structural support. However, an inspection in 1950 revealed an unintended consequence: the concrete was actually accelerating damage from shipworms and marine borers by trapping moisture.
That year, damaged sections of the pillars were cut away and replaced with grafted camphor wood from Fukuoka and Saga Prefectures. The pillars were repainted and the roof re-shingled. The Showa Grand Restoration of Itsukushima Shrine was completed in 1957, followed by a Second Showa Grand Restoration beginning in 1969.
The Reiwa Restoration (2019–2022)
From June 2019 through late 2022, the great torii underwent its first major restoration in approximately 70 years. Workers filled cavities in the main pillars—hollowed out by termite damage—with fitted wooden inserts, then reinforced the structure with stainless steel bands and carbon fiber wrapping.
To combat UV fading, a new coating was applied using durable chemical pigments mixed with acrylic resin. The result is a noticeably deeper, more vibrant vermilion than before—a deliberate choice to help the color endure longer against sun and salt exposure. The restoration was completed in December 2022, and the torii now welcomes visitors in its renewed brilliance.
FAQ
How old is the current Miyajima torii gate?
The current great torii was built in 1875, making it approximately 150 years old. It is the 9th-generation torii—a fact confirmed through research conducted during the 2019–2022 restoration, which uncovered evidence of a previously unknown rebuilding in the 1220s–1240s.
Why does the Miyajima torii have six pillars instead of two?
The six-pillar design is called ryobu style, introduced during the 1547 rebuilding. The four auxiliary pillars brace the two main columns, providing stability in the tidal flats. The name “ryobu” (two realms) comes from Shingon Buddhist terminology, reflecting the historic blending of Shinto and Buddhist practices at Miyajima.
Was the great torii always painted vermilion?
No. For about 30 years during the Meiji period (roughly 1875–1909), the torii was left unpainted as bare wood. The government’s policy separating Shinto from Buddhism deemed vermilion paint too “Buddhist.” The traditional red color was restored during repairs completed in 1911.
How often has the great torii been rebuilt?
The torii has been rebuilt nine times over approximately 900 years, averaging roughly 100 years per generation. However, the timing varied greatly—some were destroyed unexpectedly by typhoons or lightning, while others stood for over 150 years. The current torii has now surpassed that average lifespan.
What was done during the 2019–2022 restoration?
The major restoration addressed termite damage by filling hollowed sections of the main pillars, reinforced the structure with stainless steel bands and carbon fiber, replaced the cypress bark roof shingles, and applied a new UV-resistant vermilion coating. This was the first comprehensive restoration in about 70 years.
Can I walk out to the torii gate at low tide?
Yes, during low tide visitors can walk across the tidal flats to the base of the torii. This is one of Miyajima’s most popular experiences. Check tide schedules in advance—the tidal range varies significantly, and optimal low tides for walking may occur at different times each day.
Why is the current torii brighter red than before?
The 2022 restoration used a new paint formulation with chemical pigments and acrylic resin specifically designed to resist UV fading. While the deeper vermilion may look different from what longtime visitors remember, it was chosen to maintain its vivid color longer against the harsh seaside environment.
Summary
The Great Torii of Itsukushima Shrine has witnessed nine centuries of Japanese history, rebuilt nine times through the support of samurai lords, feudal domains, and modern conservation efforts. From Taira no Kiyomori’s original vision to the 2022 restoration using carbon fiber reinforcement, each generation has contributed to preserving this sacred boundary marker between the earthly and divine realms.
Recent research has rewritten part of this history, confirming the current torii as the 9th generation rather than the 8th. Strengthened with modern technology yet faithful to its traditional appearance, the great torii continues to stand in the Seto Inland Sea—greeting travelers just as it has since the days of the Heian court, now ready to endure for generations to come.
