Indulge in Anago (Conger Eel) Rice and Seto Inland Sea Udon at Miyajima’s “Kiyomori Chaya”

If you’re wondering what to eat in Miyajima and want both local anago rice and udon in one sitting, head to long-established Kiyomori Chaya, located just past Itsukushima Shrine. Founded in 1955, this cozy spot sits quietly in a seaside pine grove. Its signatures are anago-meshi (conger eel over rice) finished with a fragrant secret sauce, and udon/soba noodles steeped in aromatic Seto Inland Sea dashi.

Last month, I visited for the first time with my eldest daughter (3rd grade) and youngest daughter (kindergarten age)! The children were so excited saying “We can see the ocean!” and dining on the terrace while feeling the sea breeze was a special experience for our family. Terrace seats are pet-friendly, while the wood-warm interior features a stove for a snug atmosphere year-round. As a Hiroshima-raised mom in my 30s, I’d happily bring my family back here. Please check the official guide for the latest information.

Healing at “Kiyomori Chaya” with its ocean-view location

Kiyomori Chaya is a teahouse with roots back to 1955, nestled among coastal pines beyond Itsukushima Shrine. A short stroll from the busy Omotesando shopping street, its quiet, sea-breezy setting lets you step away from the crowds and unwind. Enjoy the view toward the Great Torii Gate from the open terrace, or settle into the calm, wood-accented interior.

In summer, the sea breeze is refreshing; in winter, the gentle warmth of the wood-burning stove is comforting. At our house, my eldest daughter said “The stove fire is flickering!” looking at it with interest, while my youngest daughter relaxed saying “It’s warm and comfortable~”. It’s family-friendly, with baby chairs available, making it ideal for a combined break and meal during your Miyajima sightseeing. Payment is by electronic money (credit cards may not be accepted), so transactions are quick and cash-free.

The coastal path walking from Itsukushima Shrine is also a lovely walking route. The moment of walking while gazing at the sea after worshipping is also the real pleasure of Miyajima sightseeing.

Business hours are generally 10:30 AM to 5:00 PM. To avoid crowds, aim for right after opening or early afternoon. Local information suggests that weekdays from 2:00 to 4:00 PM is the quietest time. After 5:00 PM, meals and drinks may be available with advance reservations, accommodating groups and budgets. Terrace seating is pet-friendly, with shade and large fans that keep things comfortable even in summer. It’s versatile for family trips, friend groups, or solo travelers looking for a quick drink (check official sources for the latest operating status and seating arrangements).

Access: From Miyajima Pier, walk toward Itsukushima Shrine, then continue along the coast past Kiyomori Shrine. Address: Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture. It’s conveniently located along the path to Miyajima Aquarium, making it an easy stop on a seaside stroll.

The standard route is to stop by on the way to the aquarium. Miyajima Marine also offers free stroller rentals, so the flow from Kiyomori Chaya to the aquarium makes family sightseeing easier.

Phone: 0829-44-0757. This time, the author—raised in Hiroshima—visited while walking with a child. The changing coastal scenery on the out-and-back route left a great impression. It’s a lovely hidden gem for those seeking a quiet meal on Miyajima.

Kiyomori Chaya sits right by Itsukushima Shrine, along the coast past Kiyomori Shrine on the way to Miyajima Aquarium.

Run by the same family for three generations since 1955, the restaurant highlights regional flavors of Hiroshima and the Seto Inland Sea. The menu features anago rice bowls with a secret sauce; udon and soba made with a robust Setouchi niboshi (dried sardine) broth; plus beef curry rice and desserts. The recommended “Kiyomori Set” lets you enjoy both a half-size anago rice bowl and your choice of udon or soba in one meal. Their salt-grilled small sardines—a local taste unique to this shop—are also highly praised.

Incidentally, among locals, many prefer “Fujitaya” over “Ueno” for anago rice, but Kiyomori Chaya is also popular for its unique deliciousness. (Tip: “Anago” is saltwater conger eel, lighter and more delicate than “unagi,” freshwater eel.)

Miyajima also has many famous anago rice restaurants. Comparing different places is also one of the ways to enjoy Miyajima gourmet.

Inside the Restaurant

The wood-grain interior creates a relaxed space for dining. A classic stove—rare in casual eateries—adds a cozy glow that feels especially welcome on chilly days of Miyajima sightseeing. The flicker of the flames sets a soothing mood.

Deeply rooted in its coastal setting since its founding, the shop is embraced by pine groves that help preserve the area’s scenery. Just a short step from the busy center, you can breathe in the aroma of freshly poured tea and the scent of the sea.

Families with children are welcome; infants, preschoolers, and elementary schoolers can enter, and baby chairs are available, making meals with little ones worry-free. In fact, I had my youngest daughter sit in a baby chair, and it was sturdy with excellent safety. The staff also treated the children kindly, allowing our family to relax and enjoy our time.

By the way, if diaper changing becomes necessary, almost all public restrooms in Miyajima have diaper changing sheets, so you can rest assured. Also, for mothers who need to breastfeed, there is a nursing room on the second floor of the Miyajima Tourist Information Center on Omotesando Shopping Street.

Ordered Tempura Udon & Anago Rice Bowl

 

The menu was more extensive than expected, and after some deliberation I ordered the anago rice bowl with tempura udon (¥1,820). You can choose udon or soba, and pair the anago rice with tempura udon, meat udon, wakame udon, kitsune udon, or oyster udon. Of course, you can also order items à la carte, so smaller appetites are covered.

At our house, we shared it with the children, but as you can see from the image, it’s a very generous and great-value set for trying both conger eel in Hiroshima and Seto Inland Sea udon in one meal.

True to its reputation for standout broth, the clear soup had a layered, umami-rich depth with a transparency I’d never experienced before. The large, plump shrimp tempura was fried to perfection—crisp outside, tender inside. My eldest daughter was delighted saying “The shrimp tempura is so big!”

The anago was fluffy, with a light, gently sweet sauce that didn’t overwhelm. The rice was cooked just right and paired wonderfully with the eel—spot-on. My youngest daughter also said “It’s soft and delicious~” and finished it all. I came to Miyajima wanting anago-meshi (grilled anago over rice), but I also couldn’t pass up the udon; this half-portion anago bowl and udon set was the ideal combo.

I was also curious about the oyster udon, but next time I want to come in winter to target oyster season. Among locals, “Yakigaki no Hayashi” is said to be the go-to place, but the oyster udon here also has a good reputation.

After-Dinner Coffee

After the meal, I had coffee (¥520). The little sweet on the side was a nice touch. I loved the Japanese-style cup, coaster, and wooden spoon—small details that match the shop’s ambiance. I prefer my coffee piping hot (I usually wait a bit before sipping), so its extra-hot temperature was a big plus.

My husband was satisfied saying “Coffee while looking at the sea is exceptional.” I visited solo, but it’s a peaceful, relaxing spot just as suited to family time or a chat with friends. Pets are welcome on the terrace, so it’s also convenient if you’re traveling with a furry companion. Consider stopping by for a meal or a relaxing break during your Miyajima sightseeing.

Kiyomori Chaya’s signature dishes are the “Anago Donburi” (anago rice bowl) with its fragrant secret sauce, and udon or soba served in a Setouchi dried-sardine broth. The “Kiyomori Set” lets you enjoy a half-size eel rice bowl plus your choice of udon or soba at once. A wide range of toppings—tempura, meat, wakame seaweed, deep-fried tofu, oysters, zaru noodles, and more—makes it easy to match your mood, which is a big plus.

In winter, seasonal oyster dishes such as vinegar-marinated oysters, fried oysters, and steamed oysters in the shell appear on the menu (availability and prices vary; please confirm on site). You’ll also find salt-grilled small sardines, grilled anago, desserts, and drinks—a satisfying lineup if you’re searching for local food in Japan, especially what to eat in Miyajima.

Information is subject to change. Please check the restaurant’s official website for the latest details before visiting.

Frequently Asked Questions (Q&A)

Q1. Where is Kiyomori Chaya located? Is it easy to access?

A. It’s located past Itsukushima Shrine, along the coast from Miyajima Pier, just behind Kiyomori Shrine. It’s easy to stop by on the way to Miyajima Aquarium and fits naturally into a scenic walking route. Address: Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture. The coastal scenery along the way is also enjoyable, and it’s an easy route to walk with children.

Q2. What are the operating hours and reservation policy? Can I visit after evening?

A. Standard hours are 10:30 AM to 5:00 PM. After 5:00 PM, meals and drinks may be available with advance reservations. Please check official information for the latest operating details before visiting. To avoid crowds, weekdays from 2-4 PM are recommended as the quietest time.

Q3. What are your signature dishes?

A. The signatures are the “Anago Donburi” (anago rice bowl) with a house-made secret sauce, and udon/soba noodles infused with the aroma of Setouchi dashi. The popular “Kiyomori Set” combines a half anago rice bowl with your choice of udon or soba. Unique items like salt-grilled small sardines are also available only here. It’s perfect volume for sharing with family.

Q4. Are children and pets welcome?

A. Yes. Infants, preschoolers, and elementary school children are welcome, and high chairs are available. Pets are permitted on the terrace seating. Shade and large fans help keep it comfortable even in summer. I actually used a baby chair, and it was sturdy with excellent safety.

Q5. What payment methods are accepted?

A. Electronic money is accepted. Credit cards may not always be accepted, so we recommend preparing cash or an electronic payment method. No need to prepare small change, which is convenient for families with children.

Q6. Is smoking permitted?

A. Smoking rules may vary depending on the season. Please confirm the latest policy directly with the store before visiting.

Q7. When does the winter oyster menu start? What are the prices?

A. A winter-only oyster menu is offered. Start dates and prices may vary each year. Please check in-store or official announcements for the latest information. As a local, I can say the oyster dishes are timed with the most delicious oyster season, so expectations are high.

Q8. When is it less crowded or easier to get a seat?

A. Shortly after opening or in the early afternoon tends to be less busy. Conditions vary by season and weather, so we recommend arriving with extra time. Local information suggests weekdays from 2-4 PM are the quietest.

Q9. What facilities are available for families with children?

A. Baby chairs are available. For diaper changing, diaper changing sheets are installed in all public restrooms on Miyajima, so you can rest assured. For mothers who need to breastfeed, there is a nursing room on the second floor of the Miyajima Tourist Information Center on Omotesando Shopping Street.

Q10. How does it combine with other tourist attractions?

A. The popular flow is Itsukushima Shrine worship → Kiyomori Chaya → Miyajima Marine. The free rest area (air-conditioned) in Momijidani Park is also a hidden gem known to those in the know, so you can use it for rest when you’re tired.

It offers a quiet environment in contrast to Omotesando Shopping Street. It’s recommended to enjoy a calm meal before and after lively souvenir shopping.

Summary

The shimmer of the Seto Inland Sea, the aroma of dashi, and tender, melt-in-your-mouth anago rice—if you’re craving Miyajima anago-meshi and Seto Inland Sea udon in one place, Kiyomori Chaya is a top pick. It’s relaxing even with children, and the pet-friendly terrace is reassuring.

As a Hiroshima-raised mom in my 30s, my first visit with my eldest and youngest daughters was a great success. Dining while gazing at the sea, the sense of security with baby chairs, the convenience of electronic money support—there are many points that families with children will appreciate. I left thinking that next time I’d share the “Kiyomori Set” with my family while leisurely gazing at the Great Torii Gate.

The taste of a long-established restaurant that has continued since 1955, and the special seaside location. It’s a precious restaurant where you can enjoy the quiet and calm side of Miyajima, different from the liveliness of Omotesando. Please be sure to stop by when sightseeing in Miyajima.

For those who want to learn more deeply about Miyajima’s history and culture, please also learn about the background of the entire World Heritage site. Kiyomori Chaya is also part of the culture that has been loved throughout Miyajima’s long history.