Senjokaku Miyajima: The Unfinished Temple with Ocean Views

Discover Senjokaku: Miyajima’s Magnificent Unfinished Temple

Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, Senjokaku Miyajima (officially known as Hōkoku Shrine) is one of the island’s most captivating yet underrated attractions. This massive wooden hall—spacious enough for 857 tatami mats—draws visitors with its unique “unfinished beauty” and panoramic views that sweep across Itsukushima Shrine and the sparkling waters below. Unlike typical Japanese temples with their enclosed spaces and ornate decoration, Senjokaku feels refreshingly open and airy, with breezes flowing freely through its framework of pillars and beams.

What makes this place truly special is its incompleteness. When the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi commissioned this memorial hall in 1587, he envisioned a grand structure to honor fallen samurai. But his unexpected death in 1598 left the building forever unfinished—no ceiling boards, no interior walls, just the magnificent skeleton of what would have been a spectacular monument to his power. This guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Senjokaku, from its fascinating historical background and architectural highlights to practical details like admission fees, hours, access information, and tips for families with children or visitors with mobility concerns.

Understanding Senjokaku: The Hall of a Thousand Mats

Hōkoku Shrine—affectionately known as Senjokaku, meaning “Thousand-Mat Hall”—enshrines Toyotomi Hideyoshi, revered as a deity of success and advancement in life. The nickname comes from its extraordinary size: the interior is vast enough to accommodate 857 tatami mats laid side by side, though the floor is actually made of sturdy wooden planks rather than traditional tatami.

The story behind this building is as compelling as the structure itself. In 1587 (Tenshō 15), at the height of his power after unifying much of Japan, Hideyoshi commissioned the monk Ankoku-ji Keiei to build a grand memorial hall for warriors who had fallen in battle. It was meant to be a statement of his authority and a place to honor the military class. But when Hideyoshi died suddenly in 1598 (Keichō 3), construction halted immediately, leaving the ceiling planking and exterior walls incomplete.

When my family visited Senjokaku last autumn, my eldest daughter looked up at the open beams overhead and asked, “Why doesn’t it have a roof?” It’s a natural question—most buildings in Japan are meticulously finished. But here, you can see straight through to the rafters and sky beyond, creating an almost stage-like quality to the space.

The roof tiles bear the character for “king” (王), and the hall’s elevated position directly overlooking Itsukushima Shrine below wasn’t accidental. These were calculated choices meant to demonstrate Hideyoshi’s supreme power to anyone visiting the island. Had it been completed according to plan, this would have been one of the most magnificent halls in all of Japan. As my husband observed during our visit, “It’s precisely because it’s unfinished that it has this incredible sense of openness and freedom.”

Experience the majesty of Itsukushima Shrine with its vermillion torii floating on the sea, showing completely different faces at high and low tide. At low tide, you can even walk right up to the torii for a special experience!

What You’ll Find Inside Senjokaku

The interior of Senjokaku is filled with fascinating historical artifacts and artworks that tell stories spanning centuries. Here are the main highlights you’ll encounter:

• The measuring sticks (shaku) used during the reconstruction of Itsukushima Shrine’s famous great torii gate
• An impressive collection of large ema (votive paintings) from the Edo period, many of which were originally displayed in the corridors of Itsukushima Shrine before being moved here during the Meiji era
• Giant ceremonial rice paddles (shamoji), including some decorated with dragon paintings, plus detailed models of the Imperial Barge and Benzaifune ships
• A traditional compass dial beautifully engraved with the twelve zodiac animals

The building’s largely bare-bones structure—minimal walls, exposed beams, no ceiling boards—allows summer breezes to flow freely through the space, creating a naturally cool and comfortable atmosphere. It’s common to see visitors sitting directly on the wooden floor, taking a break while enjoying the views. This is quintessentially Senjokaku. The very fact of its incompleteness has created a unique aesthetic that lets you appreciate the “behind-the-scenes” aspects of traditional Japanese architecture.

During our visit, my second daughter sat down on the wooden floor, looked out at the scenery, and said, “The breeze feels so good!” For kids especially, finding such a vast open space where they can sit and relax is quite rare in Japan, where most tourist sites are more structured and formal.

Walking through the interior, you’re immediately struck by how spacious everything feels. Numerous ema votive tablets hang throughout the hall, many of them quite large and elaborately painted. The ones dedicated during the Edo period were originally hung in the corridors of Itsukushima Shrine but were relocated here starting in the Meiji era when the government enforced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism.

While there are supporting pillars throughout the space, the absence of surrounding walls provides unobstructed views in every direction. From various vantage points, you can see Itsukushima Shrine’s vermillion buildings below and the famous floating torii gate beyond. The interior stays quite cool thanks to the cross-ventilation, so on sunny days you’ll often find visitors sitting on the floor in the patches of sunlight that stream in, warming themselves while taking in the view.

My eldest daughter was captivated by the ema paintings, exclaiming, “These are pictures drawn by people long ago!” She’s right to be impressed—the ema from the Edo and Meiji periods feature vivid colors and masterful artistry that remain striking even today. If you want to explore Senjokaku at a leisurely pace without crowds, the best time to visit is on weekdays between 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM, when most tour groups have moved on to other attractions.

The open design isn’t just aesthetically pleasing—it served a strategic purpose historically. Because the surroundings are clearly visible from inside the hall, this elevated spot known as “Tō no Oka” (Tower Hill) served as the headquarters for the Tō clan during the famous Battle of Itsukushima in 1555.

The Views from Senjokaku Are Absolutely Worth the Visit

One of the biggest draws of Senjokaku is the breathtaking panoramic view. From the hall’s elevated position, you look directly down over Itsukushima Shrine’s graceful buildings and out across the Seto Inland Sea beyond. On clear days, the view is especially refreshing and expansive. While I visited in March, I can imagine that the scenery in summer and autumn—when the surrounding foliage changes color—must be equally spectacular.

What makes this even better is the modest 100-yen admission fee, which makes it incredibly easy to stop in for a visit without feeling like you need to budget significant time or money. I strongly recommend taking advantage of this opportunity to enjoy seasonal views from the hilltop while connecting with centuries of history.

My family makes a point of visiting Senjokaku two or three times a year, and each visit feels fresh because the place shows a different character with every season. In the morning, sunlight makes the sea sparkle brilliantly, while in the evening, the silhouette of the great torii gate emerges dramatically against the setting sun. Even with children in tow, the constant breeze keeps things comfortable, and we often end up lingering longer than planned because it’s just so pleasant.

A local resident once shared a tip with me: while most visitors focus on the famous cherry blossoms around Senjokaku, the real hidden cherry blossom viewing spot is actually near the nearby Tahōtō pagoda. That’s where locals go when they want to enjoy the blossoms in relative peace.

Please note that information about hours and fees is subject to change. I recommend checking the official website for the most current details before your visit.

Senjokaku is part of the Itsukushima Shrine World Heritage site. Understanding the full scope of this heritage designation—which includes the Misen Primeval Forest and other sacred areas—will deepen your appreciation of this remarkable cultural landscape.

Architectural and Historical Highlights of Senjokaku

The Roof Tiles

Look carefully at the roof of Senjokaku and you’ll notice something special about the tiles. The eave tiles are engraved with the character for “King” (王), and the outermost tiles are actually gilded with gold leaf. This dazzling decoration perfectly captures the splendor of Momoyama culture—the artistic style that flourished during Hideyoshi’s era—and serves as a powerful demonstration of his absolute authority.

Every time I see the brilliance of these gilded tiles catching the sunlight, I’m reminded of the immense power Hideyoshi wielded and the weight of history this place carries. It’s one of those moments where history truly comes alive before your eyes. When I pointed out the “King” character to my eldest daughter and explained that it represented Hideyoshi’s power, she was genuinely impressed, saying, “Mr. Hideyoshi must have been an amazing person.” Indeed he was—though whether “amazing” in a good or complicated way is open to interpretation.

The Unfinished Roof Structure

The roof of Senjokaku remains incomplete to this day, with the ceiling and walls still lacking their intended planking and paneling. What you see instead is the structural framework: numerous sturdy pillars supporting the roof beams, creating an open and airy atmosphere unlike any other building you’re likely to encounter in Japan.

This construction method—using multiple pillars to distribute the roof’s weight—was characteristic of Hideyoshi’s architectural projects. As someone who rose from humble origins to become a master castle builder and military tactician, Hideyoshi paid meticulous attention to structural details and engineering.

Looking up at the exposed framework, you can’t help but appreciate its beauty despite—or perhaps because of—its unfinished state. The pillars and beams create negative spaces that frame views of the sky and surrounding landscape, almost like standing on a historic stage. My second daughter was delighted by this unusual view, exclaiming, “You can see the sky from inside!” It’s true—this offers a sense of openness you would never experience in a conventional completed building.

As one of the largest wooden structures on Miyajima, Senjokaku provides a unique experience centered on appreciating the “beauty of the unfinished.” Sitting on the wooden floor and feeling the breeze move through the open framework is a pleasure unique to this building, offering a different kind of connection to traditional Japanese architecture.

The Sturdy Floorboards

The floorboards at Senjokaku aren’t ordinary wooden planks—they feature a double-layered construction approximately 10 centimeters thick, designed for exceptional durability. This reinforced design was necessary to protect the floor from damage caused by the strong sea winds that regularly sweep across Miyajima’s cape where the shrine stands.

When you step onto these substantial floorboards, you can immediately sense their solid, reassuring weight. They feel stable and permanent, as if they’ve been standing firm through the ages—which, in fact, they have. As a parent, I appreciated that they’re sturdy enough that even children running around isn’t a problem. You don’t need to worry about them being too delicate to walk on normally.

The Ema Votive Paintings

Senjokaku is recognized as one of Japan’s three major ema dedication sites. The ema displayed here—particularly those dedicated during the Edo period and those depicting scenes of Itsukushima Shrine—captivate visitors with their vibrant colors and artistic beauty. Some of these same works are also on display in Itsukushima Shrine’s treasure hall, underscoring their historical and artistic significance.

When you spend time observing these ema up close, you can sense the vivid colors and the heartfelt intentions that were poured into every brushstroke. It’s a moment of spiritual and artistic enrichment, standing in this place where history and art converge so powerfully. Inside the main hall, alongside the large ema, you’ll also find ceremonial staffs, detailed ship models, and a traditional compass. For families with children, it becomes a fun treasure hunt, searching for each item and asking “Where is it?”

My eldest daughter studied the paintings with genuine amazement, saying, “This painting is so skillfully done!” The technical abilities of Edo-period painters truly are remarkable when you see their work up close like this.

The Giant Rice Scoop (Shamoji)

Among the various artifacts displayed within Senjokaku, one of the most eye-catching is a giant ceremonial rice scoop (shamoji). This isn’t just a quirky oversized kitchen implement—it has deep cultural significance. Miyajima is actually Japan’s leading producer of wooden rice scoops, an industry that was popularized by a monk named Seishin who lived on the island.

The enormous shamoji was dedicated as a prayer for victory in battle, based on a play on words: the Japanese phrase for “scoop up” (meshi-toru) sounds similar to phrases meaning “capture victory” or “defeat the enemy.” So the rice scoop became a powerful symbol of military success.

This massive shamoji radiates a symbolic power representing victory and achievement, making you truly feel the deep connection between everyday objects, tradition, and spiritual faith in Japanese culture. When my second daughter spotted it, she pointed in surprise and exclaimed, “A huge shamoji!” Its size is indeed incomparable to a regular kitchen shamoji—it’s several times larger than a person.

Actually, Daishoin Temple predates Itsukushima Shrine by several centuries! Together with Senjokaku, Daishoin is another essential power spot you’ll want to visit for its spiritual energy and deep historical significance.

Blessings for Career Success and Advancement

Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the historical figure enshrined as the deity of Hōkoku Shrine, is believed to grant blessings specifically related to career advancement and professional success. This makes perfect sense when you consider Hideyoshi’s own remarkable life story—he rose from extremely humble origins as the son of a foot soldier to become the most powerful man in Japan, essentially ruling the entire country.

Hideyoshi was also known as a brilliant strategist and what we might today call a “master manipulator”—someone skilled at political intrigue and maneuvering. He famously subjugated the entire Chugoku region through strategic cunning rather than just military force. Because of this legacy, the shrine is believed to grant blessings not only for career advancement but also for improved professional relationships, attracting good fortune and opportunities, and even finding a suitable marriage partner.

During our visit, my husband stood before the shrine and said, “This is the perfect place to pray for career success.” I completely understand that sentiment—who wouldn’t want to channel some of Hideyoshi’s legendary ability to rise through the ranks? I also took a moment to join my hands in prayer, wishing for my children’s future happiness and success in whatever paths they choose.

Don’t Miss the View from Under the Floor

One of Senjokaku’s less obvious highlights is the area beneath the raised floor. Because there are no walls obstructing the view, you can walk around the perimeter and enjoy the scenery from the veranda after exploring the main hall. The structural elements visible from this angle are particularly noteworthy.

Pay special attention to the “hexadecagonal pillars” (16-sided columns) that support the floor. These pillars were carefully crafted using a specific technique: to prevent cracking, they’re cut off-center into squares and then shaped into polygonal or cylindrical forms. While octagonal pillars are relatively common in traditional Japanese architecture, these hexadecagonal (16-sided) pillars are quite unusual and reflect Hideyoshi’s particular attention to detail and desire to create something extraordinary.

Walking beneath the floor and examining the structure from this angle, you’ll gain a new appreciation for the unique engineering and the beautiful way the building frames views of the landscape. Encountering this level of craftsmanship firsthand allows you to appreciate the depth and sophistication of traditional Japanese architecture. My eldest daughter was fascinated by the pillars, exclaiming, “The shape of these pillars is so interesting!” as she reached out to touch them. She’s right—you won’t see hexadecagonal pillars like these anywhere else.

Practical Information: Admission Fees, Hours, and Goshuin

Here’s what you need to know for planning your visit to Senjokaku:

• Admission Fee (Hall Entry Fee): Adults 100 yen / High School Students 100 yen / Elementary and Junior High Students 50 yen
• Opening Hours: 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM (Goshuin stamp office hours: 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM)
• Estimated Time Required: Allow 20-40 minutes for touring the hall itself, plus another 10-20 minutes for enjoying the scenic views and taking photos

Please note that admission information is subject to change, so I recommend confirming the latest details on the official website before your visit.

I’m continually amazed by the incredibly low admission fee of just 100 yen—less than a dollar. Being able to enjoy this breathtaking view and explore a structure with such deep historical significance for only 100 yen makes Senjokaku one of the hidden gems among Miyajima’s many tourist attractions. It’s an exceptional value that shouldn’t be missed.

How to Get There: Access, Directions, and Travel Time

Reaching Senjokaku is straightforward, though it does require taking a ferry to Miyajima Island first:

• Getting to the Ferry Terminal: Take the train to either JR “Miyajimaguchi Station” or Hiroden (Hiroshima Electric Railway) “Hiroden Miyajimaguchi Station.” From either station, walk to Miyajimaguchi Pier and take the ferry to Miyajima (approximately 10 minutes crossing time).
• If Driving: Due to vehicle restrictions on the island during daytime hours, it’s best to park near Miyajimaguchi on the mainland (options include Momiji Honjin Parking Lot or Miyajimaguchi Parking Lot) and then take the ferry across.
• From Miyajima Pier to Senjokaku: It’s about a 10-minute walk from the ferry pier. Follow the approach to Itsukushima Shrine, walk past or through the shrine’s corridor, then climb the stone steps leading up Tō-no-Oka (Tower Hill) to reach Senjokaku.
• Suggested Routing: A good itinerary is Itsukushima Shrine → Senjokaku → Five-Story Pagoda → Rest and refreshments at Omotesando Shopping Street. Following this order takes advantage of the natural elevation changes, making the walk easier and more efficient.

If you have extra time in your schedule, I highly recommend returning to Senjokaku in the pleasant afternoon when the breeze is most refreshing, or just before sunset to enjoy the changing light on the views. Here’s a local tip: the parking lot behind Momiji Honpo near Miyajimaguchi Station tends to have spaces available if you arrive before 8:00 AM, which can be helpful during busy tourist seasons.

Enjoy food hopping through Omotesando Shopping Street combined with your Senjokaku sightseeing! The shopping street offers delicious local specialties and perfect spots for breaks during your Miyajima adventure.

Photography Etiquette and Tips for Avoiding Crowds

To ensure everyone enjoys their visit to Senjokaku, please keep these guidelines in mind:

• Photography: Photos are welcome, but please maintain a quiet atmosphere inside the hall out of respect for other visitors and the sacred nature of the space. Because the interior is so spacious and open, it’s easy for other people to appear in your photos, so please take turns quickly and be considerate. If using a tripod, position it where it won’t block pathways or obstruct other visitors.
• Footwear: You’ll need to remove your shoes before entering the hall. Carry them in the plastic bags provided—don’t leave them at the entrance.
• Avoiding Crowds: The early morning hours right after opening tend to be the quietest, with fewer tour groups and visitors. Weekday afternoons (especially 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM) are also relatively uncrowded.

While taking off your shoes might seem like a minor inconvenience, experiencing the smooth wooden floor directly under your feet is actually part of Senjokaku’s unique charm. My kids particularly enjoyed it, saying “It feels great to walk barefoot!” The sensation of the cool wood against your feet somehow makes the whole experience feel more connected and authentic.

Visiting with Families and Accessibility Considerations

Here’s what you should know if you’re visiting with young children or have accessibility concerns:

• The Approach to Senjokaku Has Stone Steps: Unfortunately, wheelchair access to the interior of the hall is not possible due to the stone staircase leading up from ground level. For visitors with mobility challenges, we recommend using a folding wheelchair at the base and having assistance to reach the hall. Alternatively, the views from the Five-Story Pagoda area nearby may be more accessible.
• Getting Around the Island: Miyajima has made efforts to improve accessibility. Barrier-free facilities are available at both the ferry terminal on the mainland and at the Miyajima pier (though note that not all ferry vessels have full accessibility features). Inside Itsukushima Shrine, the wooden-floored corridors are relatively smooth and make movement easier for those using wheelchairs or walkers.
• Restrooms: Accessible restrooms are available at the ferry terminal and in various locations around Itsukushima Shrine. Because walking distances on the island can be considerable, plan for frequent breaks, especially if traveling with young children or elderly family members.

For families with small children, baby carriers are much more practical than strollers due to the stone steps leading to Senjokaku. The halls are breezy and comfortable even in summer, so you can relax and take your time—just remember to stay hydrated, especially on warm days. Because strollers can’t navigate the stairs easily, we strongly recommend using a baby carrier instead.

Here’s another helpful local tip: Miyajima Aquarium actually offers free stroller rentals, which can be very convenient if you’re planning to visit multiple attractions throughout the day and need to switch between carrying and wheeling your little ones.

Suggested Sightseeing Route Including Senjokaku

To make the most of your time on Miyajima, consider visiting these attractions near Senjokaku:

• Five-Story Pagoda: Located right next to Senjokaku, this renowned architectural masterpiece beautifully blends Japanese and Chinese design elements. Its interior features vibrant polychrome decoration. The central pillar employs a clever two-tiered “pendulum” structure specifically designed to withstand the strong winds common on the island. Note that during renovation periods, only exterior viewing may be possible.
• Tahōtō Pagoda: This smaller pagoda showcases primarily pure Japanese architectural style while incorporating elements of Daibutsu-style and Zen-style design. As with the Five-Story Pagoda, only exterior viewing may be available during construction or restoration periods.
• Daiganji Temple and Daishoin Temple: Understanding the history of Buddhist statues and religious objects that were relocated during the forced separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji period offers a fascinating three-dimensional view of how Miyajima’s religious landscape evolved over time.
• Omotesando Shopping Street, Momijidani Park, and Miyajima Aquarium: These are all excellent spots for taking breaks with kids or having backup plans on rainy days when outdoor sightseeing becomes less pleasant.
• Natural Highlights: Keep an eye out for the large sago palms growing near Senjokaku and other interesting plantings throughout the area. The seasonal colors—especially cherry blossoms in spring and autumn foliage in fall—make for beautiful, photogenic scenes.

Our family’s favorite route is Itsukushima Shrine → Senjokaku → Five-Story Pagoda → Omotesando Shopping Street for souvenirs and snacks. This creates a nice rhythm of cultural sites and food breaks, keeping kids engaged and preventing anyone from getting too tired or hungry. It’s a course that children won’t find boring.

Frequently Asked Questions About Senjokaku

Q: How long does a visit typically take?

A: Allow approximately 20-40 minutes for touring the hall itself, plus another 10-20 minutes for enjoying the view and taking photos. If you’re visiting with children, it might take a bit longer, but the refreshing breeze makes it comfortable to spend extra time there. You won’t feel rushed or overheated even if you linger.

Q: Can I get a goshuin stamp here?

A: Yes, goshuin stamps are available during reception hours, which are typically 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM. During busy periods like holidays and weekends, you may need to wait a few minutes, so allow extra time in your schedule if collecting stamps is important to you.

Q: Is photography allowed?

A: Yes, you’re welcome to take photos throughout Senjokaku. Just be considerate of other visitors and avoid obstructing pathways or making too much noise. It’s an excellent location for family photos, with the open architecture and scenic views providing beautiful natural backdrops.

Q: Is it suitable for visiting with children?

A: Absolutely! The interior is spacious and well-ventilated, making it easy for children to rest and move around comfortably. The open wooden floor gives kids more freedom to explore than many other tourist sites. However, due to the stone steps and staircases in the approach, a baby carrier is recommended over a stroller for safety and convenience. Most children find the wide open spaces and interesting architectural elements engaging.

Q: Can I use a stroller or wheelchair?

A: Unfortunately, the stone steps leading up to Senjokaku Hall make it difficult for strollers and impossible for wheelchairs to access the interior. However, barrier-free facilities have been developed throughout other parts of the island, so you can still enjoy much of what Miyajima has to offer even with mobility challenges.

Q: Can I visit on rainy days?

A: You can visit, but be aware that wind can blow rain into the open sides of the building, so you might get wet. That said, rainy days on Miyajima sometimes offer a special kind of experience—fewer crowds mean you might feel like you have Mount Misen and its attractions almost to yourself, which is a luxurious feeling in its own right. Just bring appropriate rain gear and be prepared for wet conditions.

Q: Are there places to eat or rest nearby?

A: Yes, Omotesando Shopping Street is just a short walk away and offers numerous restaurants, cafes, and rest spots where you can grab a meal or snack. It’s very convenient to combine with your Senjokaku visit, making it easy to take a break whenever you need one. After exploring Senjokaku’s historic spaces and panoramic views, it’s the perfect place to relax with some local specialties.

Final Thoughts: Why Senjokaku Deserves Your Time

Senjokaku offers something truly unique among Miyajima’s many attractions: a distinctive sense of openness and freedom created by its deliberately unfinished structure, combined with some of the island’s finest panoramic views. Taking time to appreciate the ema votive tablets and historical tools that tell centuries of stories, sitting on the wooden floor while feeling the breeze flow through the hall, and simply being present in this remarkable space with your family or friends—these experiences will become genuine highlights of your Miyajima trip.

The combination of reasonable admission fees and straightforward access makes it easy to plan a visit together with Itsukushima Shrine and other nearby attractions. The entire experience flows naturally as you move from one site to another.

My family absolutely loves Senjokaku and makes it a point to stop by every time we visit Miyajima. My kids have been asking repeatedly, “Can we go back to that place with the nice breeze?” ever since our first visit, which tells you something about how memorable and comfortable the experience is. For just 100 yen—less than the cost of a vending machine drink—you can enjoy this breathtaking view and immerse yourself in centuries of history at Senjokaku. I highly recommend experiencing it at least once during your visit to Miyajima. It may well become one of your favorite memories of Japan.

Related Articles You Might Enjoy

The new specialty, fried momiji! Perfect for food hopping after visiting Senjokaku, this crispy twist on the traditional momiji manju sweet is a must-try Miyajima delicacy that adds a fun modern touch to the classic treat.

For oysters in Miyajima, “Miya Toyo” is the place! Highly recommended for a satisfying meal after enjoying the spectacular views at Senjokaku, this restaurant is known throughout the region for serving incredibly fresh local oysters prepared in traditional styles.

Recommended for breakfast! Miyajima Bessou’s island delicious bread is a popular bakery on Omotesando Shopping Street, perfect for starting your Miyajima day with fresh-baked goods and coffee before heading out to explore.